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Pilot Holes for Hardwood Screws: Size, Depth and Method

A pilot hole is a guide hole drilled before the screw goes in. In hardwood it is sized close to the screw’s core, so the threads still cut fresh fibre but the wood does not split. For a #8 wood screw, a typical starting point is 1/8 in in hardwood (7/64 in in softwood), plus an 11/64 in clearance hole in the top piece when you are joining two boards. Treat every figure as a starting point and test it in an offcut of the same board, because species, moisture and the screw’s make all shift the answer. The full list of sizes is in the wood screw size chart.

Key takeaways

Why hardwood needs a pilot hole

A screw acts as a wedge. In softwood the fibres compress and make room; in dense hardwood they resist, and the pressure goes sideways instead. The result is a split board, a screw that wanders off its mark, or a head that twists off before the screw seats. A pilot hole removes the wood that would otherwise be forced aside, so the threads only have to cut the fibre around it. Splits are most likely near ends and edges, where there is less wood to resist the wedge.

Two holes, two jobs

When you join two pieces, the screw passes through one and threads into the other, and each needs its own hole.

Size the pilot with the bit test

Hold the drill bit up in front of the screw, and look from the side. In hardwood, the bit should cover the screw’s solid core, the narrow body between the threads, but leave the threads themselves sticking out on both sides. A bit that is narrower than the core makes the screw hard to drive; a bit that reaches the thread tips leaves the threads nothing to cut. If you also hold a screw in the hole after drilling, it should turn in with firm hand pressure on the driver and not spin freely.

Typical starting points

Wood screw sizeHardwood pilotSoftwood pilotShank clearance hole
#63/32 in5/64 in9/64 in
#81/8 in7/64 in11/64 in
#109/64 in1/8 in3/16 in
#125/32 in9/64 in7/32 in

These figures are approximate values from manufacturer pilot-hole guidance, shown as typical starting points. Other charts and manufacturers’ box instructions can differ by about a drill size, and very dense woods may want a slightly larger pilot. If the manufacturer prints a size on the packet, use that first.

Depth and method

  1. Mark the screw position and clamp the pieces so they cannot shift.
  2. Drill the clearance hole through the top piece, then add the countersink if the head is flat.
  3. With the pieces clamped, drill the pilot hole into the lower piece through the clearance hole, so the two holes line up.
  4. Drill the pilot to about the depth the threads will travel. Wrap a piece of tape on the bit or use a stop collar to mark it.
  5. Rub the threads on wax or soap, which makes the screw easier to drive in dense wood, and drive it with a steady turn until the head is seated. Stop there; driving further can strip the hole or snap the head.

Use the screw as the judge. If it binds before it seats, a slightly deeper or slightly wider pilot usually fixes it. If it spins freely, the pilot is too large, and the next screw needs a smaller bit.

Near ends, edges and each other

Stay away from ends and edges where the job allows it, since the wedge effect is strongest there. Stagger screws so they do not line up along one grain line, because a row of wedges in the same grain is a common way to split a board. Both habits matter more in hardwood than in softwood.

Don’t borrow a machine-screw hole size

The size numbers overlap between machine screws and wood screws, but the holes do not. A #8 machine screw uses a #29 tap drill, which is 0.136 in, to cut its thread in metal. A hardwood pilot for a #8 wood screw is typically 1/8 in, or 0.125 in. A #29 hole in wood would leave the threads almost nothing to cut. Each family has its own table; the drill-bit finder picks the right one from the screw you choose.

The pilot and clearance figures above come from the wood screw size chart. Sources and method explains how this site checks its own wood-screw figures.

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